Michel Richard Citronelle - Washington D.C.
I was very enamored with Michel Richard after I made the foie gras brulee from his book Happy In the Kitchen. So what was stopping me from making a reservation at his famed restaurant, Citronelle? Nothing! I called the reservation desk and tried to get a reservation for a weekend in April to celebrate the hungry hubby’s birthday. The French-accented voice replied “Sorry madam, we only have a 9 pm availability.”
That time slot was too late! The hubby and I agreed long ago that any time later than 7pm would be disastrous for our early-dinner hungry bellies. Last time we agreed to an 8:30 pm reservation, I had a bad case of stomach cramps due to hunger pangs. That was definitely too late (who in the world eats dinner at 9 pm anyway?) So I thanked the lady, hung-up and pondered my inability to get a reservation.
Then another idea struck me (see the light bulb go on?) I used Open Table before to try to get reservations at “The French Laundry” (in vain.) I wonder if I will have more luck with Citronelle. After a few mouse clicks, I clasped my hands in hope as a 7 pm availability appeared. I snatched it up quickly, fearing that someone was looking over my shoulder to steal that coveted reservation just to torment me. Paranoia, it seems, occurs frequently when it comes to certain restaurant reservations.
We were lucky that Citronelle is in the same hotel where we were staying at. This meant : no drive time, keep the wine flowing please. Though we do not expect to tumble out of the restaurant in a drunken stupor, we fully intended to finish a bottle of wine. This was a lofty goal for me -- a lightweight in the drink department. Most Asians apparently lack an enzyme to process alcohol properly and I am the perfect example of that theory. So it really falls upon the hubby to finish the entire bottle. Did I mention that we did not have to drive?
As we made our way to the restaurant, we walked the length of a seemingly unending structure that made up the wine cellar. It was huge! It surrounded the restaurant, was encased in glass, and obviously was climate-controlled. Eyes transfixed on the rows and stacks of wine, I almost lost sight of the maitre‘d as she led us to our table which was nicely situated -- right by the wine room! I was struck with a sinking feeling as I realized what this meant -- the wine in this place was not going to come cheap.
Our server, who appeared to be French, brought us our menus. Apparently we had a choice of the 10-course or 3-course dinner. Guess what we chose? What would pigs gourmands choose? The 10-course extravaganza, what else? After making this decision, the hubby focused his attention on the wine list. “They are all real expensive, booboo” the hubby remarked, disheartened as I was. I really wanted him to enjoy his special day. What sense would it be to order such elaborate fare only to skimp on the wine selection? I told him it was his birthday so just pick one that we would love especially since we have a pretty long dinner to savor it with.
As he was reading the list of Cabernet Sauvignons (our wine of choice), the sommelier appeared and asked if we had any questions. We told him that we wanted a wine that would go with the tasting menu. We did not want the wine degustation that was offered with the menu. Although we wanted to learn more about French wines we liked big opulent wines like the Joseph Phelps Insignia. He immediately suggested the Peter Michael 2003 Les Pavots which he said, if I remember correctly, had that big fruit bomb taste that we like and is similar to a young Bordeaux.
Anyhoo, the wine was perfect right out of the bottle although the sommelier told us to wait until it gets to room temperature so we can taste the real deal. But I wanted a drink in anticipation of our first course so I went ahead and took a sip. It was ‘da bomb! It was oaky like the essence of antique tobacco boxes. It was fruity like cherry and blackberry jam. It was just utterly complex blessed with a long smooth buttery finish. C’est magnifique! (heh- that was French was it not?). I had the urge to twirl this intense ruby liquid on my tongue just to prolong the experience.
Okay, enough said about the wine before I run out of words to describe our dinner.
As with all tasting menus, not all are perfect and memorable. So I will only describe the ones I could not stop thinking about. Besides I am not a food critic. My words to describe the food would probably seem repetitious: tasty, delicious etc. ;)
The amuse-bouche arrived quickly. It was a trio of whimsical proportions. There was a mushroom puree that was encased in a filo dough. All I can say is you can’t go wrong with mushrooms. Then there was what appeared to be a crescent of hard boiled egg. But the eyes were deceived for it was not an egg but mozzarella cheese cut into the curve of the egg white! A gelee of yellow tomato was settled snuggly in its hollow to give the illusion of the yolk. The last piece to complete the trio was a charming salad of haricots vert (green beans) nestled in the hollow of an eggshell.
I must say this was quite the opening number. The hubby and I are presently still debating if the egg shell was real. Our server said it was real. It felt real. But the hubby said he looked under the shell and it was flattened which made it stand in place. How do you do that to an egg?
Soft-shell crab with corn risotto happened to be one of my favorite. It reminded me of a soft-shell crab tempura. The body of the crab was filled with corn and risotto…and you know what happens to deep-fried risotto. Can I say enchantingly delicious? The crab had the perfect crunch for it was breaded carefully and was not greasy to any degree. I could make an argument right here that deep-frying was not fattening at all if done properly.
I was less enchanted with the rockfish course because I didn’t care for this particular fish that much. I was also disappointed with the lobster burger. It was quite ordinary but the saving grace, believe it or not, was what came with it: potato chips! I was very impressed how Chef Michel managed to inject new life into something as common as a potato chip. It was whisper thin, and curled so perfectly, the crackle eliciting a smile of childhood contentment.
There was nothing childlike however, in the veal course. It had sweetbreads. Not bread sweetened with honey … it is more shall we say, a delicacy coming from a young animal -- in this case -- a calf. I did not care much for the sweetbread but the Black Angus veal that it accompanied totally made the dish. It was so tender and the morel sauce so vibrant and rich, it coated the meat with just enough flavor to draw the delicate taste of the veal to the fore.
By this course, I had developed an overall impression of the cuisine de Michel Richard. Although he was not at the kitchen the night we went (he was at the IACP awards in Chicago), I could sense the jovial personality of this talented man shine through in his dishes. He is a culinary artist and he loves putting a spin on his food making them appear as something it is not. I figured that was why our waiter tried to explain our amuse-bouche so painstakingly lest we think it was an awful-tasting egg. But knowing that it was fresh mozzarella and yellow tomato changes one’s perception as this is a phenomenal combination with a mind-blowing twist.
I noticed that last two dishes were an apple napoleon and a mushroom dish. At first I thought “Why would a mushroom dish come after dessert?”
The apple napoleon was something I did not expect. It was an elegant 3 layer creation. Instead of puff pastry sheets, it had thin apple crisps that separated the layers. In fact the whole dessert was made from apple in one form or another. The filling was an apple mousse and it was topped with apple infused cream (I think it was ice cream but by now I am so dazzled I didn’t care.) One would think that all these would be too “appley”, but amazingly, each incarnation of the apple was flavored differently that what you have essentially is a well- choreographed ode to this fruit!
Still thinking that our last course was a form of mushroom, the “hungry” hubby ordered a scoop of pistachio ice cream to go with the apple dessert. Imagine his surprise (and mine) when what came next was the cutest dessert I have ever seen.
A brown and white mushroom!
It was made from meringue and the shiny dark brown cap had a shiny chocolate glaze. For some reason it reminded me of fairy tales. But cute doesn’t cut it. I don’t like meringue much. That was until I broke the mushroom. The white stem had a thick white cream and the brown cap had chocolate ice cream! The man is a genius! The texture and subtle sweetness of the meringue complemented the richness and creaminess of what it had hidden. What a perfect ending to a perfect dinner.
But wait, there is more. Also at the table were some petite fours and wafers. The petit fours were chocolate ganache – little gems that were utterly decadent. The wafers intrigued us with each bite. How can something so whisper-thin become so infused with incredible flavor?
The meal took almost 4 hours. But we did not notice the time. We were busy savoring the wine, talking in awe of a previous dish, surveying the room for politicians or interesting diners, and just plain giggling at nothing. I did notice that we outlasted the two seatings of the table immediately to my left. The first seating was two old couples that were gossiping about their friends: dissecting their wealth and travel destinations. I like it that they were very appreciative of each plate and seemed very enthusiastic about their food. I could not say the same for the second seating. It was a strange couple. They did not appear to be talking much. Maybe one of them is a dirty mistress. You never know in Washington, D.C.;-)
The time between courses was about 20 minutes. There was a longer lull midway when they cleared our charger plate. In between courses and conversations with the hungry hubby I finally came to understand why Michel Richard’s book is named the way it is; the feeling of happiness that must have gone into his efforts to create each masterpiece has definitely transferred its essence to the food he serves.
I could only shake my head at the culinary magic that I have just witnessed. Though it might be a while before we can afford to splurge this way again, Michel Richard’s Citronelle is a place I would surely consider visiting again.
